AlainPaul Unveils Dramatic Vision for Fall/Winter 2024, Escalating and Elucidating

Text: Jesse Scott

Alain Paul returned to the Théâtre de Chatelet to present his eponymous brand’s second show. Under a bright spotlight, severe collarbone silhouettes, dramatically draped coats, and a color palette representative of the seemingly paradoxical austerity and grace that defines the rhythm of a ballet were illuminated. Paul has an established reputation in fashion, having worked under both Demna Gvasalia at Vetements and Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton before co-founding his brand with his husband, Luis Philippe. His confidence and experience was on full display this week, as he exceeded expectations for his sophomore season with a steady-handed collection that further elucidated his vision while tantalizing attendees with glimpses of the high drama and masterful tailoring that should continue to evolve over time.

Alain Paul’s designs have always been influenced by his history as a ballet dancer and his encyclopedic knowledge of choreography. While his inaugural S/S 2024 collection saw Paul reference Stravinsky’s Rite of Spring, A/W 24/25 focused on Martha Graham’s interpretation of The Lamentation, a piece from Hungarian composer Zoltàn Kodály that premiered in New York in 1930. The striking geometric forms of the collection recalled tragically beautiful grief while referencing the determined composure that defined Graham’s wrought performance. 

Models moved down the runway with a rigid determination, evoking the dignity and elegance of fallen nobility. They resolutely held their heads high. The casting for the show, which as with AlainPaul’s first season, showcased both male and female looks, was excellent. Two male models, looks 32 and 33, dominated the runway with an unbridled ferocity in rugged denim and sleek leather, respectively. The forceful looks were counteracted by understated ballet flats, just another metaphor for the violent beauty of life as a dancer.

Each AlainPaul look is inextricably linked with the ballet; for this brand, dance is not just a loose inspiration but a way of life that defines every movement and material.  Whether in knitwear, denim, or even a shiny velour, Alain Paul referenced dancers on and off the stage with a special focus on the rehearsal wardrobe. 

Several structured jackets mirrored the arched shoulders and clavical indentation typical of proper ballet posture, encasing their wearers in a state of permanent poise.  Lycra tops were paired with elegant black pants, freezing dancers backstage during the moments in which they prepare for a show.  The tutu, ballet’s most iconic garment, was inverted to appear in necklines and gowns. And one denim suit even duplicated the scuff marks found on the floor of a ballet studio. 

Some looks reference the refined evening wear that attendees might wear to a ballet premiere. A radiant navy coat, quasi-transparent white cape, and glossy double-breasted tux jacket would look perfect front row, or on the dancers as they go out for a much-deserved celebration after a successful show. The grand finale, a dramatically draped and pleated bridal-style gown with a transparent upper, was a metaphor for the collection - revealing yet teasing at much more to come.